| 1. Before, Be-hold the boring black plastic engine bay of a standard Focus ST. |
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| 1a. Here’s one I made earlier, now please join us on how we got to this stage. |
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| 2. First we remove the Induction pipe, its secured with 2 10mm bolts. |
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| 3. then undo the induction pipe from the hose on the side of the Engine. |
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| 4. Once the Induction pipe is removed, remove the Boost hose from the Turbo. These will be replaced at a later stage. |
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5. With the Induction pipe out of the way , its a lot easier to install the brake servo pipe cover.
It can be fitted without removal of the Induction pipe but were changing the Induction pipe anyway. |
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| 6. Take the brake servo pipe cover and place it onto the threads sticking out, as shown here. |
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7. Then tighten with the stainless nuts provided.
The HOT logo and the arrows point down the HOT Turbo manifold below. |
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| 8. Now were going to tackle the cam cover, first remove the noise resonator pipe. |
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| 9. This is a easy one, remove Oil cap. |
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| 10. Remove the Torque bolts that secure the cam cover. |
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| 11.Once the 6 torque bolts have been removed, lift the cover upwards and to the right hand side to remove. |
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| 12. To remove the timing belt cover, undo the 2 torque bolts and un-clip the cover. |
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13. We fitted our Colour coded Engine covers in Electric Orange.
They are also available in Colorado Red & Performance Blue. |
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14. Nice Basically install Engine covers as they were removed.
Our stainless engine centre plate was also fitted, available with Team ST logo or Plain, this is secured with a strong double sided tape |
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| 15. Stainless timing belt cover being fitted, this is secured with adhesive tape proveded or a strong adhesive such as sticker flex, tiger seal or our under bonnet plate adhesive. |
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| 16. All fitted |
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| 17. Apply a small amount of grease on the ’o’ ring of the Oil filler cap before fitting, this helps the Oil cap seal correctly. |
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| 18. Re-fit Air resonator pipe, we had ours painted in Panther Black. |
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| 19. Now were going to cover up those boring injectors, undo the 4 camcover bolts required. |
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| 20. Place the Injector cover onto the cam cover and refit the bolts. |
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| 21. Tighten the bolts until tight, but be careful not to over tighten. |
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| 22. Another nice easy one, our cam cover recess plate sticks onto the recess of the camcover. |
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23. We have fitted a CAIS kit to our Focus ST and now have to relocate the ECU, It now sits just behind the headlamp.
Looks slightly boring at the moment, but our Ecu cover will sort that out. |
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| 24. It fits onto the 2 holes where the earth straps locate, the earth straps can be re-fitted on the top or the bottom or the cover. |
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| 25. The ECU cover slides over the ECU as shown in the picture. |
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| 26. The secure with bolts provided. |
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| 27. Then re-fit complete cover and ECU together. |
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| 28. We then fit our 2 piece boost pipe kit, with the back one fitted first. |
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29. Place the Stainless Induction pipe into place.
This Induction pipe is a real piece of kit, no visable welds. |
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| 30. Place the Induction pipe into the new silicon hose and tighten. |
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| 31. Get the Induction pipe into position and line up the side bracket, use one of the old bolts to secure. |
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| 32. Place the other Boost pipe as shown in picture. |
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| 33. Getting there, as you can see the CAIS system is our Gen1 (no longer available) we have since replaced it with our Bigger and better Gen2 Cold Air Induction System. |
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34. Next up is the Inlet manifold cover, this will give your Engine bay that wow look, its Big, it very well made and even better, its very shiny.
Secured with our Under bonnet adhesive. |
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| 35. Place cover firmly into position and allow the sealant to dry for about 3 hours. |
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| 36. Battery cover is next up. To fit, mark the battery cover using the stainless cover as a template, then drill the marked holes. |
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| 37. Secure the cover using the stainless fixings provided. |
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| 38. Fuse box cover simply places on the top of the original fuse box lid with adhesive tape provided. |
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39. The wing rail cover are dead easy to fit, remove the black plastic screws and fit wing rail covers and refit plastic screws.
We sell 2 types of wing rail covers, the wing rail cover top trims or we sell the full wing rail covers. |
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| 40. Thats this side sorted out. |
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| 41. Remove bonnet stay. |
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42. And install new chrome version.
We only use new Ford parts for our chrome parts. |
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| 43. We remove power steering cap before fitting reservoir cover. |
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| 44. Cover simply goes over the top of the reservoir cover. |
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| 45. Power steering cap is grooved inside for a near perfect fit, best secured with under bonnet adhesive. |
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| 46. Next we are fitting the water header tank cover, remove header tank cap. |
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| 47. Use under bonnet adhesive to secure cover onto header tank. |
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| 48. Place cover into position. |
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| 49. Place cap back onto header tank and then we placed the cap cover onto the cap. |
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| 50. Washer cap simply un-clips from washer bottle. |
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| 51. Fit new engraved washer stopper. |
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52. This neat cover covers up the 2 annoying lugs that stick into the engine bay and apear to do nothing.
Its secured with stainless bolts provided. |
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| 53. To fit the dipstick handle, we cut off the top of the original handle. |
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| 54. Slide the stainless dipstick handle onto the original dipstick and tighten with the grub screw on the side of the new handle. |
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| 55. Now we finish with our bonnet latch surround, undo the 2 10mm bolts |
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| 56. Place surround into position and fit new stainless Allen key bolts provided. |
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| 57. Not bad eh All parts are available from our on-line shop or call us on 01375 850062. |
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| 58. All done |
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